im looking into a complete drivetrain upgrade. clutch, lsd, flywheel, and final gear ratio change. does anybody know weather the quaife is better than the torsen T2 diff? and is a 4.06:1 final drive ratio too much? that seems pretty quick. add that with an alluminum flywheel and new clutch, what does everyone think of the setup.
Quaife lsd w/synthetic oil and new bearings
4.06:1 final drive gears
focus sport aluminum flywheel
and still trying to decide what clutch to get. i like the sound of the sachs clutch kit on bat
The clutch depends on what kinda power you'll be making. Spec stg III in the 6 puck variety will be good for most any upgraded foci. It'll hold the power and be smooth as silk as far as pedal feel and driveability.
You'll hear different opinions from everyone regarding quaife vs. torsen. Both are very good, I think it's a matter of opinion. We ran the quaife and have had no bad problems with it at all.
Gears are a great option if you are gonna do a lot of drag racing or short track scca stuff. I personally would rather ratio down with tire size and keep the oem gears for daily driving.
Aftermarket aluminum flywheels are wonderful, best bang for the buck for spirited driving and big power imo. BUT you will lose time in the quarter if you go with too much clutch. I was running consistent 15.4's with oem gear, switched to a fidanza flywheel (same as focussport) and clutchmasters stg IV 4 puck clutch and started running solid 16.5's. Needless to say I was pretty upset. Basically, the engine did not have enough rotating mass anymore to push thru the grab, either it grabbed and spun the tires or it'd bog very badly off the line. Still, as far as fast revving and getting out of the hole on a road course, you can't beat it. If you're not going turbo I'd suggest a stg II spec clutch. It's rated far above oem as far as power holding capabilities, but it won't clamp as hard as a big power clutch and will work a lot better with the light flywheel.
We run mobil1 atf and 2oz of ford friction modifier in our mtx 75's and it can't be beat imo.
Hopefully this answered most of your ?'s, good luck
ya thanks, im planing the turbo, but if i get the fflywheel do you think i should go with a weaker clutch? or should i stay with the 6 puck..or will that slow my times like yours?
6 puck is rated to the same tq numbers as the 4 puck as they use the same pressure plate, but the 6 puck has a lot more surface area which amts to more slip where you need it. I think it'll be just right. The stg II is just a slight upgrade from stock. Better to overdo it on a clutch, as it's a beeyotch to replace and you only want to do it once. the stg III 6 puck should engage like factory and you should be able to full throttle out of corners and downshift and still pull without any slippage
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Last edited on Fri Jan 7th, 2005 06:08 am by mr.squatch
just make sure you make a reference mark on the flywheel and crank before you pull it off. Regardless off the off center bolt, it is still possible to bolt on a flywheel in threee positions. 2 of those are wrong. having a marked flywheel will give you a reference when installing the new flywheel.
oh yeah, be prepared for some gearbox noise with the aluminumm flywheel.
yup those flywheels rattle like a bitch. Sounds like your engine is knocking it's not an attractive sound. Another thing to remember though is that most all of the aftermarket flywheels are actually a bit on the too light side. You are going to lose revs just as fast as you make em, and that's not always great with a turbo. You'd think someone would make a flywheel that is somewhere between the current aftermarket ones and the stock ones weights.
zx3 tuning has a new deal with a clutch/flywheel company and is offering one in the middle... I thinkit's around 13 lbs. I didn't know you could put a flywheel on in a wrong position. hmm. Not a bad idea to get it and your clutch/pp balanced before goin in either.
The rattle is the throwout bearing, it always rattles, it just gets a lot louder when u put in an alum flywheel. It's loud enough to be embarassing at idle. haha.
The point about losing revs is a good one as far as turbo goes, but I'd consider it still a good thing in any situation, rev up and down faster. it definitely has it's pro's and cons, but even after losing time at the drag strip, I wouldn't trade mine for anything
the thing about the flywheel is that in two positions, it lines up enough that you can bolt it on. the holes arent dead center but you can definately bolt it on. I did it wrong the first time and it wasnt untill I thought about the timing marks and took it off to be sure that I noticed. Got it lined up now though. all the bolt holes were dead center.
TXFO wrote: oh yeah, be prepared for some gearbox noise with the aluminumm flywheel. I just replaced my clutch about 2 weeks ago. I thought seriously about the aluminum flywheel, but I've heard they're real noisy. I ended up having the stock one turned.
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The flywheel question is a good one, it really depends on what you are going to do with the car. If you are going to be drag racing it probility isn't a good choice, but if you are going to autox or just for a daily driver the lighter flywheel will really wake the car up.
As for the lsd, go with the Quaife, can't go wrong with a life time warrenty.
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thanks for the addvise, lifetime warrenty sounds great. i will be mostly driving this car everywhere but will still be drag racng it. so i dont know, i still have a while to decide. as for it taking off time in the 1/4 mile...how much is it. and why does it take off this time?
OK, this is just a guess, but the heavier flywheel carries more momentum once it's spinning. The aluminum one will let the revs drop more. Even if you're power shifting, (as I do when racing), you won't get as big of a "kick" when you shift. Also, when getting off the line, the heavier flywheel will help against bogging, where a lighter one will have a tendency to stall easier.I really don't know if that'll hurt your 1/4 mi. times or not.
In road racing, a lighter flywheel is highly desirable, because when rolling, the revs will build more quickly.
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That's pretty much exactly it. Think about grabbing a spinning merrygoround with nobody on it, u can prolly stop it, ur acting like the clutch. then try to grab the same merrygoround thats spinning with 20 people on it.
Basically, the focus doesn't put out much hp, if you take away the only thing it has going for it at the drag strip, rotating mass, and give it a heavier gripping clutch, it doesn't have enough momentum to push thru the grip of the tires anymore, the clutch grabs the light flywheel and just holds, this causes you to either spin out or bog, mostly bog. I lost an entire second by going to cm IV and fidanza flywheel at the drag strip. At the road course I gained about 3 seconds per lap, because when i hit the gas, it goes, and when i downshift it revs down a lot faster and i can use the engine to brake a lot more.
I wouldn't trade my flywheel for anything. Once I put a decent shot of nitrous to it, the power was enough to push thru the grip and it all payed off, for a turbo car I'd say my setup is pretty good, but I would probably recommend a stg III or 6 puck clutch over a 4 puck. If you're going na and want to get a flywheel, i'd say stick with a lower gripping clutch like a stg II.
ahh..alright, well then i still dont know. soudns like ill probably keep the stock flywheel. will there ever be a point in a tubo kit where the stock flywheel would be a big drawback?
no, not really, maybe at a point over where the zetec can go for less than 10k. For boost, it's good to have an engine that revs back down slow, during shifting the rotating mass keeps it going w hich means less time out of boost. With the factory heavy flywheel you can also use a harder clamping clutch and not have to worry about the bog.
having a marked flywheel will give you a reference when installing the new flywheel.
