Well I travled up to Moorseville NC for a Dyno to tune my cams. Its a great AWD dyno and only $100 an hour (For SCCA Members). I was able to learn alot about my car and Cam tuning for the Focus and its Crower Stage 2 Cams! Now This is what I got! I have a CAI (AEM Clone), Crower Stage 2 Cams, Focus Central Adjustable Cam gears, Esslinger UDP, and a
4-1 Race Header
flowing into 2.5" pipe with a DynoMax Super Turbo muffler! These are my Numbers!
At 0 degrees Intake, and 1 Advance Exhaust
167.8 HP @ 5898 172 lbs/ft @4854 223.7 HP at the Crank
At 0 degrees Intake, and 2 Advance Exhaust
157 HP @ 4793 171 lbs/ft @4704 210.6 HP at the Crank
At 0 degrees Intake, and 0 degrees Exhaust
180 HP @ 5583 192lbs/ft @4788 240.0 HP at the Crank
At 1 degree Intake, and 0 degrees Exhaust
180.4 HP @ 5581 189lbs/ft @4801 241.0 HP at the Crank
At 1 degree Intake, and 1 retard Exhaust
191.8 HP @ 5587 200lbs/ft @4692 255.7 HP at the Crank
So 191.8 on a Naturally Aspirated 2.0L is pretty good. That was my hour! I want to go back and play with it some more I want to see 200HP but I only had one Benjamin! NOS is for Pussies!!!!!
Last edited on Fri Mar 18th, 2005 04:00 pm by RUFocused
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Those are some nice numbers with only a few parts. I know the cams would wake the motor up. do you have any head work or did you just remove the stock cams and install the new ones.
what were your stock numbers? (did you have any?) are those numbers adjusted? what engine do you have? With that list of parts I don't think an NA zetec would see those results.
The car pulls great on the road. Although looking at my torque curve I may be in need of a new clutch soon. All those numbers are correct. the Dyno I used is calibrated by the state of NC and used in Speedometer calibrations as well as alot of smaller nascar teams bring their cars in there to test on it as well. I have the paper work here If I had a sheet scanner I would post it. But Believe me its real! And yes it came from a NA Zetec. UDP, Ford Racing 10mm plug wires, Intake, "Crower Stage 2 Cams","Focus Central Cam Gears", 4-1 Race Header, 2.5" plumbing out the back w/ a "Super Turbo" muffler. The car is technically not street-legal. Now there is no reason for me to fabricate these numbers they are based on the curb weight of the 2000 ZX3! JOE I was as surprised as you!!! The guy that runs the Dyno was Impressed and Surprised, In fact he had to double check to make sure the settings were correct. I was thinking maybe around 170WHP. Im telling you all this so you know what the Zetec is capable of! Im NOT trying to SELL anything! In fact with a little more tweaking on the cams I might be able to find some more Hopefully! I'll let you all know!
The car is running a bit lean so Im working on a resistor type knob to adjust the intake temp sensor to richen up the fuel/air mixture while I drive. Either that or Im going to have to break down and buy a chip!
Last edited on Wed Mar 16th, 2005 04:32 pm by RUFocused
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Just in case you were wondering the temp ambiant temp started at 61.7 F and the last run was at 57.8 F and I was at approx. 543 ft above Sea Level according to my GPS. We did use 2 electric floor fans to cool off the engine during runs.
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Depending on what kind of dyno machine it was effects numbers. The dyno's that you can adjust the roller force give a more accurate hp and tq rateings. Other dyno's you just plug in the cars weight and it caculates the hp and tq. The second is less accurate.
I'm not trying to be a dick and say your wrong, but different dyno's give different results. I know a few people on other sites with a hell of alot of work who are only putting out 180whp. I'm talking about high compression pistons, FR head, Crower connectiong rods, FR intake manifold.
____________________ Honda's are like assholes, everyone has one.
I know I am new and may get slammed but there is no way on earth with your mods on that 2.0 ZETEC that you made that much power. There are cars out there with a JRSC on an SVT that don't make that kind of power.
With that said, you have a nice list of mods and I don't doubt that your car will put down some numbers but no way is it that much without some power adder of some sort and a hell of a lot more work. I have a friend with a milled and ported head, race header, FS stealth exhaust, Stage 2 cams, FR gears, 65mm TB, Pipercross intake, and a host of other goodies with an SCT tune on his car and it makes mid 150-160 at the wheels.
Are your numbers SAE corrected? Did they accurately apply the corrct amount of resistance to the rollers? These are the questions I have. Again, not to be a dick, nut those are some high numbers for what you have mod wise.
____________________ Iceman CAI/FS Cool Flo/FC TB/FR Plugwires/Autolite Dbl Plats/Bosal Flexpipe/ Magnaflow Catback w/Add'l Res/BAT/Spax 50mm Springs & Damps/Energy Suspension Bushings & Motor Mount/P-51 Shims/Eibach Anti Roll Bars/Euro Front Endlinks/FS Strut Bar
Well Actually you all are right. I had the numbers checked again and Keith calibrated his dyno to find out that it was set in AWD mode. So he has offered me another free hour on the Dyno to get the correct numbers and allows me another hour to tune my cams. So those number may be off by about 20-30 hp But I still have another hour to tune so I will get back with you all next week sometime when I can get up to North Carolina and get it back on the Dyno!
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Properly tuned, I am going to say that you'll make somewhere around 130 to the wheels. Depends on tuning. Get yourself a TB for throttle response and a SCT or Diablo Predator and you should be able to pull 135-140.
God I wish I had an MTX, stupid leg!
____________________ Iceman CAI/FS Cool Flo/FC TB/FR Plugwires/Autolite Dbl Plats/Bosal Flexpipe/ Magnaflow Catback w/Add'l Res/BAT/Spax 50mm Springs & Damps/Energy Suspension Bushings & Motor Mount/P-51 Shims/Eibach Anti Roll Bars/Euro Front Endlinks/FS Strut Bar
KicknZX3 had over 10K in mods on an NA car and it had barely over 160.
He will need at the very least, a milled and P&P head with at least 10.8:1 CR, maybe stage 3 cams, stage 2 will probably due, some kind of aftermarket intake mani, a 70mm TB, and a nice tune to pull those numbers. Or a turbo, NOS, or SC.
There is a reason that some folks think that N/A is not cheating and some thin FI is. It takes a lot of hard work and money to reach high numbers on a N/A 4 cylinder.
Turbo Tom and Ray at McNews automotive along with Focatech from FMS and FF tuned and did all the work on Kickns car and they will tell you that money will deffinitely be needed to make that kind of power.
____________________ Iceman CAI/FS Cool Flo/FC TB/FR Plugwires/Autolite Dbl Plats/Bosal Flexpipe/ Magnaflow Catback w/Add'l Res/BAT/Spax 50mm Springs & Damps/Energy Suspension Bushings & Motor Mount/P-51 Shims/Eibach Anti Roll Bars/Euro Front Endlinks/FS Strut Bar
Well, Sublime I would tend to agree with TXFO! Thats what I was shooting for atleast when I went there the first time. I got some numbers from Crower that would put me in the range of 150-165 at the wheels. And a Race Header makes a huge difference. Getting rid of that restrictive Cat. is HP waiting to be extracted! You can tell that in the numbers I did get. By adjusting the Exhaust I got a large percentage of Power and Torque with each degree. I wish I had a more breathable intake and could afford to drop 10g's in a car But I don't ! So I don't think the intake cam is going to afford me the huge gains that I would like But If I can hit the numbers Crower gave me then I will be Happy! Turbo Tom and some of those guys would love for you to drop 10 grand into a car! So go ahead and you do that if that what makes YOU happy! I will stay NA and enjoy beating the other cars in my class.
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Just to clarify, I am no way attacking you man. I have been at this Foci thing for a while. I have an ATX with a few engine mods, which is in no way a speed demon, but know usually wht numbers something will put down.
If you know some folks from FF.com you know Vassili and ZX3 Chick/Lil_red ZX3. Both of their cars put down 124 at the wheels with all of the possible basic bolt ons. They then went with a milled head and cams, race header, and chip tuning.
I have the utmost faith that your car will put down decent numbers but once you start pushing around 150HP, you might want to start looking into bigger injectors. Otherwise you will be running really lean in the upper RPM range. Don't get me wrong dude, you are going to have a kick ass car that will deffinitely be a quick one.
I am quite intrigued as to what it will put down for numbers.
____________________ Iceman CAI/FS Cool Flo/FC TB/FR Plugwires/Autolite Dbl Plats/Bosal Flexpipe/ Magnaflow Catback w/Add'l Res/BAT/Spax 50mm Springs & Damps/Energy Suspension Bushings & Motor Mount/P-51 Shims/Eibach Anti Roll Bars/Euro Front Endlinks/FS Strut Bar
I'm agreeing with the rest. Those numbers are way off. Crower 2 cams are a streetable cam, which doesn't require any ECU tuning to run properly. Not to mention you are on a stock head with a limit flow. And with the stock injectors, you would be running them from between 125-140% duty cycle, which just doesn't work. Also, your peak HP is really low in the power band for those numbers.
When you get your reruns, I would expect closer to 150-160.
10k in his car and he's pulling less than 200whp, holy crap. I'm putting down over 200whp and I've spent no where near 10k on motor parts.
Also the stock focus injectors are good up to 150whp. If you pass the 150whp mark you'll need the next size up injectors. When that happens you should look at a bigger MAFS ( calabrated to the larger injectors ) and a tuned chip.
____________________ Honda's are like assholes, everyone has one.
Food for thought!!!
