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Chelly03PZEV
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Mana: 
 Posted: Wed Mar 16th, 2005 02:45 pm
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Hey all my fellow Foci Techies - I need some help for a fellow member on another forum.

Here is the thread - I'd be more than happy to post the answer if you don't wanna join, but this is interesting.

http://www.gmvsford.com/forums/showthread.php3?t=7752

Thanks!



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Chelly03PZEV
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Mana: 
 Posted: Wed Mar 16th, 2005 03:42 pm
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Anyone? ;:what



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RPIJG
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Mana: 
 Posted: Wed Mar 16th, 2005 03:48 pm
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I don't know the exact answer but the SVT focus pump is one of the best in Ford's lineup from what I've heard.

The SVT focus pump is a 143lph pump so take that times 2 (since the Mustang will need the dual pumps) and that's 286lph. Using the relatively simple equation of 0.5lb of fuel per hp, gas weighing about 6.1lbs per gallon, or 1.6lbs/L. So 457lbs fuel/hour. Using the equation (lbs/hour) / 0.5((lb/hour)/HP) = HP we get a nominal number of about 915hp. Now, we certainly know that the nominal number is way high here, and the SVT focus fuel pump won't pump above probably 75psi (they are actually limited to 85psi, and you lose about 10psi at the from the pump to the injector, so keep that in mind. Also make sure he checks the electrical draw of the SVT focus pumps I believe it is higher than the stock Cobra pumps.



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Mana: 
 Posted: Fri Mar 18th, 2005 02:47 pm
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focus pumps are an upgrade for cobras. not a direct plug in but not hard to install either. he needs the kenne bell boost-a-pump. it is probablly the best option available. here is a pdf from their website, its clearly biased in its assesment of the options but there is a good underlying point.

 

 

KENNE BELL BOOST-A-PUMP / COBRA vs FOCUS vs WALBRO FUEL PUMP TESTS


and a Few Discussions About Injectors and the HP They Support


Normally we don’t comment in detail on subjects unless our products are misunderstood or being


bashed. We’ve fielded way too many calls, emails and posts wherein Kenne Bell customers are


criticized for or discouraged from using our Boost-A-Pump. Well, it’s time we set the record


straight.


So you believe that replacing your dual 119 lph Cobra pumps (238 lph total) with dual SVT


Focus 143 lph pumps (286 lph total) is the answer? Really? Kenne Bell flow bench tests indicate


the Focus pumps offer a mere 20% flow increase over the stock Cobra pumps! All pump


"ratings" herein are based on 80 psi unless otherwise specified.


And you’ve been told by the "experts" that the dual Cobra pumps with the Kenne Bell Boost-APump


that we supply to hundreds of our ‘03 Cobra kit owners, as part of the kit, will not support


high HP levels and you should install larger pumps and forget the Boost-A-Pump. Let’s take a


look at the real flow bench "facts". Our in-house tests clearly show the Boost-A-Pump, with the


stock Cobra pumps flows a whopping 378 lph or almost 60% more fuel - 3 times the flow


increased by the Focus pumps without the BAP: 286 - 238 = 48 vs 378 - 238 = 140 more lph!


There are quite a few Cobra owners who purchased the Focus pumps or are thinking about


‘converting", that are sure to ask these questions:


Q: Can I use the Boost-A-Pump with my Focus pumps so I can match or exceed the stock Cobra


/ BAP combination?


A: No. Not, unless you remove the stock fuse completely (bypass it) and install a larger fuse


holder that can house a 40 AMP fuse. The stock fusebox houses a 30 AMP (maximum that we


know of) mini-fuse for the pumps and cannot accommodate a fuse big enough to handle the


added current draw from the dual Focus pumps. Next, you better look at the wiring size from the


fuse center to the FPDM to make sure the wire is sized correctly to handle 40 AMPS.


Q: How high pressure can I run the Focus pumps at to get the maximum delta pressure required


to make the high HP?


A: The Focus pumps "blow off" at 85 psi (remember delta injector operating pressure + boost =


rail pressure). Don’t forget - there is a 10 psi loss from the output of the pump to the injector, so


use 75 psi as your max for figuring max delta vs. boost. The Focus pumps cannot flow any more


fuel at higher pressures. The stock Cobra pumps do not incorporate internal "blow off" valves,


and can be run at higher pressure than the Focus pumps.


Q: How large an injector then, can the two systems (Focus / no BAP vs Stock / with BAP


support?


A: Let’s do the math: Two Focus pumps at 143 lph = 286 lph = 417 lbs of fuel / 8 cyl = 59 lb


(actual flow) injectors. That’s IF 100% of the fuel discharged from the pumps gets to the


injectors. Keep in mind that the Focus pumps are only 20% larger than stock, but the HP increase


we’re talking about is up to 100% higher than stock.


Now, let’s talk two Cobra / BAP combination pumps at 189 lph = 378 lph = 627 lbs of fuel / 8


cyl = 78 lb (actual flow) injectors. Obviously, the Boost-A-Pump has a comfortable safety


margin that can compensate for line and rail losses or pressure fluctuations, a partially clogged


fuel filter and equally important; voltage losses and / or fluctuations. Remember, the BAP is also


a voltage regulator. And finally, the Cobra / BAP combination has already been tested with 63 lb


injectors up to 700+ rwhp (814 ehp), with room to spare.


Q: Are there any other issues will I run into when installing the Focus pumps?


A: We found several other issues.


THE OBVIOUS


Dropping the tank is no picnic. Better have the right fuel line disconnect tools, start out with a


totally empty tank, and / or wear a splash proof / fire proof suit. When removing the fuel pump


assembly, be VERY careful when pulling the assembly out, otherwise you’ll break off a little


piece of the fuel level sending resistor, and the level will never read correctly again.


ELECTRICAL HOOKUP


The electrical connectors are different between the two pump types. This means the Focus pump


connectors have to be "adapted" to the old pump wiring harness. This is not "plug-and-play".


Plan on spending some serious time cutting the old harness off and soldering (yes soldering)


connections that will then be submerged in your fuel tank. Whoever is doing this better do them


"like factory". Who would want soldered connections floating around their fuel tank?.


FUEL LINE HOOKUP


Again, the pumps connect to the outgoing fuel lines differently. To "adapt" the Focus pumps, the


factory hoses must have the "ear clamps" cut off, then you better have the new correct size "ear


clamps" to reattach these onto the Focus pumps, or you’ll end up pinching the hoses with some


sort of scary screw-type clamp (make sure it’s all stainless, and the right size - doesn’t sound too


reliable, does it?).


PLUG AND PLAY?


We have seen some "Plug and Play" Focus setups for around $325 plus a core charge of $300 for


your stock pumps - oops, hope you don’t want to ever put the stock one’s back in, otherwise,


that’s $625 plus shipping. Next add labor costs to do all this. The Boost-A-Pump is included in


our kit at $0 extra charge, only takes about 1 to 1-1/2 hrs to install, and when used with the stock


Cobra pumps, far outflows the Focus pumps.


Q: Are there any factory issues with Focus pumps?


A: You might want to check out this link. "... as of 09 September 2002, 18 crashes and 4 injuries


have been attributed to the failed fuel pumps after the vehicle's engine failed to due a lack of fuel.


The defective fuel pumps fail without notice."


http://www.blueovalnews.com/2003/cars/focus.fuelpump03n01.htm


Still want to go the Focus pump way?


Or better yet, as some suggest, you should spend thousands of dollars to convert to a "dual return


system" with 2 of the largest Walbro GSS342 / 255 lph pumps. But 2 of these pumps only flow


316 lph at 80 psi (same pressure tested rating as all the above), or 20% less than the Kenne Bell


BAP / Cobra pump combo. Oops! That would be a big waste of money while creating some


serious tuning and driveabilty problems. We tested the pressure drop in the fuel system right out


of the tank and at the beginning and end of the fuel rail at 700 rwhp and there was a 7 psi loss in


the filter / fuel line and 3 psi loss in the rail. Replacing the stock fuel line with a 3/8" will drop


the filter / fuel line loss to about 2 psi. We tested the Cobra fuel filter at 203 lph flow at 80 psi in


and it only dropped ½ psi out, so a clean filter isn’t the restriction, the fuel line is. We’ll be


posting some more useful information soon on fuel line sizing in a future thread.


Now that we’ve published all the pump flow numbers (see charts below) and you get a chance to


review them, we think you’ll agree: "Is it a really a good idea to replace the 378 lph Kenne Bell


Boost-A-Pump / Cobra stock pump combo with the 286 lph Focus dual pumps (less the Boost-APump)"?


Or, how about a high dollar 316 lph dual Walbro pump setup with a return line, or


Aeromotive 273 lph? Compare the above scenarios to the easy installation of a Boost-A-Pump.


Cut into one FPDM wire hook up to "input" and "output", connect the ground, and run the


pressure switch to a boost source. That’s it.


Here’s a quick summary of the pump tests:


Kenne Bell BAP/Stock Pump Combo............. 378 lph


Dual Walbros (no BAP)................................... 316 lph


Dual Focus (SVT, no BAP)............................. 286 lph


Stock Cobra..................................................... 238 lph


Never overlook voltage variations. 1 Volt is 10% fuel capacity. The Boost-A-Pump is also a


voltage regulator and therefore compensates for voltage fluctuations in your electrical system.


And, contrary to the opinions of some, the BAP will actually INCREASE the life of the pumps


because they do not have to work as hard with the increased voltage and amperage supplied by


the BAP (see our post at http://www.modularfords.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7819 - LOOK


AT THE CHARTS). Note how much LESS duty cycle is imposed on the pump when the BAP is


used? LESS DUTY CYCLE = LONGER PUMP LIFE.


Also, look for two great references on our website covering pertinent formulas, technical


information and the Boost-A-Pump:


http://www.kennebell.net/techinfo/techinfo-general.htm


and: http://www.kennebell.net/accessories/boostapump/boostapump.htm


Failure of pumps caused by the BAP are non-existent. They are as reliable as the sunset, as with


our Boost-A-Spark ignition system. We use the Boost-A-Pump on virtually every kit (they are


included at no added cost). We have never seen a failed pump that was caused by a Boost-APump.


Why, then, do some resist using the Boost-A-Pump? Our guess is they just don’t


understand the principle of its operation or benefits, or are unaware of the performance gain from


their pumps or they are being talked out of using them by those wanting to sell them "a better


alternative".


One aftermarket parts vendor has been quoted as saying:


"I do not use the b oost-a-pum p. I believe the boo st-a-pump w ill kill the life expectancy of the pu mps. I also


believe the least amount of aftermarket electronics you put on your car the the less chance there is of that


part failin g. Basica lly, if you did not install th e part it ca nnot fa il." This strikes us as odd, since this very


same vendor is quick to sell you all kinds of his "aftermarket electronics" like computer chips,


pumps, fans, mass air meters, etc... Aren’t these "aftermarket electronics"? Again, the BAP is


part of our kit (included at no extra charge) and is required or we would not include it. Why on


Earth would anyone remove an integral part of our kit?


Remember, the pumps and the pressure they operate at are only one part of the equation. There’s


boost, delta pressure (injector nozzle tip operating pressure), fuel lines, rails and most important,


chip tuning and injector sizing.


"A dozen fuel pumps will not supply enough fuel if the injectors are not sized properly and the


tuning is not right".


For a better understanding of fuel systems we highly recommend reading "Fuel Pump Figuring"


http://www.kennebell.net/media/media-home.htm article by Miles Cook at Super Ford.


All flow tests are shown at 80 psi (remember to ALWAYS ask what the pressure was at the flow


rate being quoted - you must get this into your head if changing / altering your fuel system). It has


much more meaning than a simple rating. To show a better (higher) flow rating if we were selling


pumps or injectors (which we’re not to ‘03 Cobra owners), we could just give you the highest


flow number, but that would be at the lowest pressure. Your engine doesn’t run on the lowest


pressure, so the highest number (or some rate other than what your engine operates at) is


misleading and will get you into trouble.


The pumps were tested at 40 and 60 psi also. Flow will increase approximately 40% when


pressure is reduced from 80 to 40 psi. This is normal for any fuel pump: as flow increases,


pressure decreases, as flow decreases, pressure increases.


Note that the Kenne Bell BAP / Stock Cobra Pump Combo delivers 59% more fuel than the


stock Cobra system and 33% more than the Focus SVT pumps. Also note the SVT Focus pumps


are only a mere 20% better than the stock Cobra pumps - not 65% as some claim.


At Kenne Bell, we have a computerized fuel flow bench. We can - and often do - remove the


entire fuel system from a vehicle and flow test pumps, fuel lines, rails, injectors, filters etc.


ENGINE HP AND "ACTUAL" INJECTOR FLOW


We’re often asked:


"How come he can make more HP with 39# stock injectors than I can with 55's.?" "What fuel


pressure do I need?""How much HP can I make with this injector?"


There are a lot of variables in making HP. Many aren’t understood or even considered in the


overall equation. We are fully aware of the confusion that exists about fuel systems as the basics


of flow and pressure are seldom understood.


Here’s a formula that we use to determine safe potential engine HP from ACTUAL INJECTOR


FLOW for a supercharged Ford V8 at a safe 11.5:1 Air/Fuel Ratio and 85% injector duty cycle:


(ACTUAL INJECTOR FLOW x .85 x 8 x 2) = ENGINE HP.


EXAMPLE: (38.5 (Cobra stock injector at 39 psi delta) x .85 x 8 x 2) = 523 ehp


ENGINE HP x CORRECTION FACTOR (DYNOJET) = rwhp


EXAMPLE: 523 x .86 = 450 rwhp


It’s IMPORTANT to remember this is a guide for delivering 11.5:1 all the way to redline AND it


is based on 39 delta psi. Anyone with the knowledge and right software / hardware can make


more HP with this same injector if a) you raise the delta psi, and/or b) extend the duty cycle


and/or c) run the engine leaner. 10% leaner from 11.5 to 12.65 = 10% less fuel used to make the


same hp - or 10% more fuel to make 10% more hp. At 650 hp using the 10% savings in A/F


Ratio can make as much as 65 MORE HP, or 705 hp with the same amount of fuel.


Another EXAMPLE:


‘03 Cobra 55lb rated | 46.7 actual at 39 psi delta | 59 psi rail | 20 lbs boost


(46.7 x .85 x 8 x 2) = 635 ehp | 635 ehp x .86 = 546 rwhp


Now, let’s raise the fuel rail pressure to 85 psi with the Kenne Bell chip and Boost-A-Pump.


‘03 Cobra 55lb rated | 60.5 actual at 65 psi delta | 85 psi rail | 20 lbs boost


(60.5 x .85 x 8 x 2) = 822 ehp | 822 ehp x .86 = 707 rwhp


This an additional 161 rwhp or 29.5% more power with the SAME injector!


The intent of the two examples above is to illustrate how fuel pressure greatly affects injector


output potential.


Now, when someone tells you "You don’t need the Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump", "You need


volume, not pressure", "You need Focus pumps", "You need 255's", "You need bigger rails and


fuel lines", etc. you can at least arrive at your own conclusions.


And, yes you can use larger injectors such as our 63# at the stock delta pressure, as we did on


Earl’s car to make 700 rwhp.


Let’s plug the injector we used on Earl’s car into the equation:


‘03 Cobra 63lb rated | 63 actual at 39 psi delta | 64 psi rail | 25 lbs boost


(63 x .85 x 8 x 2) = 856 ehp | 856 ehp x .86 = 736 rwhp (we made 700 before the ignition quit


firing above 25 psi)


Now, let’s increase the delta pressure by 10 psi to 49.


‘03 Cobra 63lb rated | 71 actual at 49 psi delta | 74 psi rail | 25 lbs boost


(71 x .85 x 8 x 2) = 965 ehp | 965 ehp x .86 = 830 rwhp


Our standard ‘03 Cobra upgrade supercharger kit utilizes the stock 39/42 injectors with a BAP.


Our Kenne Bell "Cobra and Lightning Tech and Tuning Tips" at


http://www.kennebell.net/superchargers/ford/cobra03/cobra03-tech.htm and in our literature


states that our kits will produce 617 rwhp @ 19 psi with this fuel system, Kenne Bell Switch


Chip and Cool Air Kit.


Let’s use the formula again to see how this compares to more actual test data:


‘03 Cobra 39/42lb rated | 51 actual at 65 psi delta | 84 psi rail | 19 lbs boost


(51 x .85 x 8 x 2) = 693 ehp | 693 ehp x .86 = 595 rwhp


We clearly state that we made 617 rwhp at a leaner 12.1 A/F Ratio and in the "‘03 Cobra Chip


Technology" section, we state the difference between the POWER 11.1 A/F R mode and


SHOOTOUT mode in our Switch Chip is worth "up to 20hp". 595 + 20 = 615 rwhp. That’s close


enough to 617 rwhp.


Always keep A/F Ratio in mind when someone makes a relatively high hp claim with a marginal


fuel system, as 13.5 A/F Ratio (a very lean mixture) always makes the most power. By


comparing our thousands of data logged dyno runs, we were able to verify the above formula for


predicting potential ehp when an actual injector flow is known (at that vehicle’s delta operating


pressure).


A stock 39 lb Cobra injector can flow 33 to 51 lbs from 30 to 65 psi, the KB 63 lb injector can


flow 54 to 83 lbs at static flow (100% duty cycle or full-on), just so you know the effect of


pressure vs. flow through the injector. Actual flow can only be determined by delta pressure


(nozzle tip pressure). So when someone tells you they are making "X" hp, be sure and ask "At


what delta pressure?", then use the formula to check it. Be sure to factor in rwhp vs, ehp!


As we said at the beginning of this thread, there have been far too many uninformed negative


comments about the Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump. Many of you have requested we respond to this.


We always do our level best to supply you accurate unbiased test data, proven theories and facts


as we have witnessed them. Considerable time was spent testing the pumps, fuel lines, filters and


injectors. We hope this information is helpful.



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goinloco1
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Mana: 
 Posted: Thu Sep 28th, 2006 02:30 am
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wth? talk about misinformation...

that and i know quite a few people who race that wont use the boost a pump due to it failing when it absolutely isnt a good time. most consider them junk, me included.

and they totally piss me off with this...
as of 09 September 2002, 18 crashes and 4 injuries
have been attributed to the failed fuel pumps after the vehicle's engine failed to due a lack of fuel.The defective fuel pumps fail without notice."

as i recall and the recalls state, these were from the stock focus fuel pump, not the svt pump which is a different animal.

theres so much of this crap in their statements its not funny. but some dont realise theres a difference in the pumps, or how the pumps actually work, etc.

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azn_ZX3
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Mana: 
 Posted: Sun Mar 18th, 2007 08:30 pm
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Hello. i'm relately new (well actually completely) new to this forum. I was reading the bit the one gentleman posted about the fuel pumps and all. I am the proud owner of an '03 2.0L Zetec, Med metallic gray ZX3. I'm in the Navy and currently on deployment in the Persian Gulf. I purchased a good bit of mods fr my car and am planning on installing them whenever i get back. I was wondering if I should upgrade to the SVT pump or not. I've purchased an Eaton/Magna M62 series PowerWorks supercharger unit. I haven't been able to find out whether or not the stock pump in my ZX3 will be efficient enouh or not. Which brings me to another question. I don't know if you'd know the answer or not. How much horsepower will the stock half-shafts handle on a ZX3. PowerWorks claims that the supercharger i bought will produce 200+hp and 185+lbs torque. I already have a 4-2-1 header, custom mandrel-bent 2 3/4" piping w/ hi-flow cat, and muffler; ford racing plug wires, and short intake. I'm looking at about 220+whp and 200+lbs torque, respectfully. I need to knowif the half-shafts will handle that. And if not, where can i find some sturider hafl-shafts? I've looked EVERYWHERE and haven't found any. sorry i had to ask a lot in the one message. The internet connection on the ship isn't the greatest ad this is one of the few times that i can get a decent connection. Any and ALL help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. -_- AZN PRIDE!



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SyntheticShield
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Mana: 
 Posted: Wed Mar 21st, 2007 02:09 pm
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I cant speak to the Focus specifically, even when I had my Focus I never reached anywhere near the level to be concerned about the fuel pump and/or injectors.

However, with the Grand Prix I have done three things that extend the usefulness of the stock fuel pump.  I want to stay with the stock fuel pump because of its venturi design and it excellent ability to scavenge fuel out of the tank.  I can really get down to the last drop and I know because I have pushed it.

The first thing I did.  Upgraded all the electrical wiring in the engine bay, what some call the big three or four depending on the vehicle.

When I had the focus and I had that small fire in the engine bay, I had to upgrade the wiring as the factory wiring to the starter and such got fried.  So I upgraded the all the power wires to 1/0 awg that I could (starter, etc.) and then the grounds to 1/0 awg.  All the other grounds got upgraded to 4awg.  Afterwards the Focus was more responsive and I even picked up some fuel mileage.

I did the same thing on the Grand Prix nearly immediately after getting it.  All the major grounds are 1/0awg, starter power wire is 1/0awg and the alternator to battery wire that was some 10ft long in the OEM harnes, I reduced to rougly two feet and upgraded to 4awg.

The second thing I did was install a fuel pump rewire kit

I never saw anything like this for the focus, probably because the fuel pump is harder to get to than in the Grand Prix.  In the Grand Prix I can remove the fuel pump from the back seat of the car using the trunk pass through door.

The fuel pump rewire kit upgrades the fuel pump wiring from the pump all the way to the relay from like 18awg to 14awg.  What this does is drastically reduce voltage loss due to resistance in the wiring.  Those of you in electrical fields or electronics will understand better.  But there is a direct relationship between wire size, length of wire and its resistance.  The more current you try to push across that wire the more relevant that resistance becomes. In the stock wiring of the GP to the fuel pump you loose between 1.5 and 2.0 vdc, which can really reduce the effective range in which the fuel pump can support.  This modification ALONE takes my horsepower support from about 310 - 320hp to close to 360hp.  That is significant.

Shortening up the Alternator wire and upgrading it as I did pushes that number even higher as it alone can add roughly another 0.5vdc to the pump which is important with the design of the pump.

The third thing I done was modify the alternator reference voltage

Most modern alternators use a reference voltage to control output voltage.  If you vary the reference voltage you can vary the output voltage.  There is a limit of course, as at some point the protective circuits of things like the PCM, stereo units and so forth will shut down if they see an over voltage condition in an effort to protect themselves from damage.

I modified my reference voltage by nearly 1.25 volts.  Which is about the max I can go and still have a little maneuvering room in case of spikes and so forth.  I hope to add a good sized capacitor in the near future to alieviate that potential issue.


The result of all this work?  My system voltage before all this work was roughly 13.5 vdc at idle.  Pretty standard, perhaps a tenth or two voltage variance at idle.  Now, my system voltage is 15.2 vdc.  Ive extended the usefulness of my fuel pump by 60 - 70 hp if not more and I did it all for less than $75 and few hours of labor.  I am now comfortably at a point I should run out of injectors long before fuel pump.

The additional benefit of this all is the my car starts super super easy now.  The motor doesnt even seem to turn over completely before it fires up.  Turn the key and there it is, fired up and running.  In addition, lights, stereo's and so forth work much better.  Furthermore, the car is much more responsive, shifts were even better than they were and I have a shift kit installed.  The best part, I picked up 3.5 mpg better fuel economy.  Which means all the cost of the parts and such paid for themselves.  Ive had all this done long enough that its probably more than paid for itself.

The moral of this super long post?  Its probably best to look within first.  That means, that if you are pushing the limit of your system, fuel pump in particular, there is probably enough left if you do the right things.  Now the GP fuel pump is a rollervane style pump, and I dont believe suffers fromt he upper end cutoff that the focus does.  But just the same, which is easier; buying a new fuel pump, droping the tank, installing the fuel pump or squeezing out what you can in the electrical system which is easier to work on?



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