Not a good idea. Hard to get each spring cut at the exact length. Plus you still are stuck with the same soft spring rate. You would probably scrape the tires even over the smallest bumps and potholes. The SVT springs are pretty cheap and will offer a better ride with a little drop.
teamfocus wrote: Not a good idea. Hard to get each spring cut at the exact length. Plus you still are stuck with the same soft spring rate. You would probably scrape the tires even over the smallest bumps and potholes. The SVT springs are pretty cheap and will offer a better ride with a little drop.Yup! What he said.
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not only that it messes up your cambers...so after a while your wheels will stick out...that is if you cut them...right now i have ground control coilovers with eibach springs...had them for a while, and i don't like them that much...in the spring, i'm gonna be putting Tein Super Street Suspension with the EDFC controller inside the car... Tein is very good...i think they're the best...
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fx3 wrote: and a spring could pop out also if you hit a lage enough bump.But if a buy a set of lowering coils.......is it not the same thing? so lowering coils would pp out then also correct
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nope because a lower spring is designed to work with your car's suspension, cutting springs in essence just remove material without regard to spring rate, or even mounting placement. The coils on a spring aren't all the same, they narrow, and have different pitch to them, if you cut the wrong ones, or too much, or just a different end, you can have serious problems. Lowering springs are designed with those implications in mind. Assume this for instance, your springs on your car right now, are a progressive rate spring. That means that some of the coils actually compress easier than others. If you cut from the soft side you will in essence reduce the softness of the spring, and but you haven't taken into account the reduced length of the spring overall, so now when you hit a bump the spring doesn't fit as it once did, the spring comes unseated because it is stiff and rebounds strongly, but isn't well supported, bad things then start to happen. Having your springs cut effectively by a trained professional would cost you about the same as buying a prefabricated set of lowering springs, and the prefabbed springs will perform 100 times better.
I also quickly spoke with a buddy about this and he said that the site where they cut the springs on the older Chevy's(the link you posted) is for a differant type of suspension setup. The springs on the focus are strut type and dirrectly over the wheel/axle where as the older suspension is not a strut type and not dirrectly over the tire/axle. In trying to explain this the pivot points are not in the same place.
And also as a side note another buddie lost a spring from a lifted ranger. Can't remember if it was a stock or lifted spring but it poped out on a trail and flew a good couple hundred feet(this was not a strut type spring).
RPIJG wrote: nope because a lower spring is designed to work with your car's suspension, cutting springs in essence just remove material without regard to spring rate, or even mounting placement. The coils on a spring aren't all the same, they narrow, and have different pitch to them, if you cut the wrong ones, or too much, or just a different end, you can have serious problems. Lowering springs are designed with those implications in mind. Assume this for instance, your springs on your car right now, are a progressive rate spring. That means that some of the coils actually compress easier than others. If you cut from the soft side you will in essence reduce the softness of the spring, and but you haven't taken into account the reduced length of the spring overall, so now when you hit a bump the spring doesn't fit as it once did, the spring comes unseated because it is stiff and rebounds strongly, but isn't well supported, bad things then start to happen. Having your springs cut effectively by a trained professional would cost you about the same as buying a prefabricated set of lowering springs, and the prefabbed springs will perform 100 times better.And these are the exact same reasons women should never try to alter their bras.
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The focus has both type of springs the rear are shocks and seperate springs. The front are struts with the springs over them. Cutting springs is a real bad idea for lots of reasons but if you do decide to cut the springs the ride of the car will be greatily reduced. Cutting would only make your car low the handleing would then suck bad, you will get the ricey bounce when driving over bumps. Not to mention it would be real hard to set the camber do to the fact the cut springs are not going to be the exact same cut. And you will end up chewing up tires real fast.
Coil overs are also not the best choice unless you have the money for the good ones. DO NOT buy the $30 dollar ones. The control of the car will be reduced with the cheap coilovers. The spring tention is so tight that the car will be real bouncy I had a friend that lost control on the highway and ended up in the ditch becuase of a small dip in the raod. If you want good coilovers plan on $800-$1200 for a good set.
The focus can take up to a 2" drop without needing camber kits to adjust the camber of the wheels. Sportlines provide a nice drop for a decent amount of money. It is recommended that you replace the dampers at the same time. If you don't the OEM dampers life span will be cut real short, and you will be forced to replace them soon after.
audiojunkie wrote: Anyone using coilovers? unless you are planning on at least 1100 for "true" coilovers, dont bother wasting your time. theyre a horrible ride (similar to riding on cut springs) and usually drop the car a minumum 2" plus an additional 3-4 usually. ive seen a few apps where when fully in the UP position, the coilovers have dropped a car ~2"..an extreme case, but jus go with springs or a full "true" coilover setup. you can get the B&G or eibach (theyre all basically the same) kits for anywhere from $170-220. these are all in the area of a 1.4-1.75 drop usually. you can then step up to the eibach sportline (and similar) kits for around $150-200. or if you come across a set of used SVT springsyou can pick them up really cheap and hide that stock wheel gap without being extreme about it
sveet03 wrote: audiojunkie wrote: Anyone using coilovers? unless you are planning on at least 1100 for "true" coilovers, dont bother wasting your time. theyre a horrible ride (similar to riding on cut springs) and usually drop the car a minumum 2" plus an additional 3-4 usually. ive seen a few apps where when fully in the UP position, the coilovers have dropped a car ~2"..an extreme case, but jus go with springs or a full "true" coilover setup. you can get the B&G or eibach (theyre all basically the same) kits for anywhere from $170-220. these are all in the area of a 1.4-1.75 drop usually. you can then step up to the eibach sportline (and similar) kits for around $150-200. or if you come across a set of used SVT springsyou can pick them up really cheap and hide that stock wheel gap without being extreme about it
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Pretty much what he said and everyone else...
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you can pick them up really cheap and hide that stock wheel gap without being extreme about it