Engine hoist that can support at least 750 lbs

Jack stands

Floor jack

Complete socket set

Breaker bar

Crescent wrenches

Adjustable wrenches

Screwdrivers

Torx bits

Torx sockets

Flared wrench

Jaw puller

Pry bar

Rubber mallet

Hammer

Clutch alignment tool

Flywheel tool (ring gear jammer)

32mm impact socket

Impact gun

Motor oil

Power steering fluid

Coolant

Transmission fluid

Brake fluid

Disconnect the hose from the washer nozzles and remove the hood by unfastening the 4 screws that secure the hood to the hinges.

Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jack stands.

Disconnect and remove the battery and battery tray (3 bolts under battery)

Disconnect the MAF sensor and remove the intake system.

Remove the wheels from the vehicle.

Unbolt the calipers and hang them from the springs.

Remove the pinch bolt from the steering knuckle and the ball joint securing bolt.

Remove the nut from the tie rod end separate the joint with a pickle fork.

Separate the ball joint from the knuckle with the pickle fork.

Pull the strut base free from the knuckle.

Prevent the axle from over bending at the CV by supporting it with a jack or jack stand.

Using the impact gun, remove the 32mm nut from the center of the steering knuckle.

Pull the knuckle off the axle. If it is stuck, use the jaw puller.

Remove the 2 bolts that hold the passenger side axle into the intermediate shaft bracket. The bracket is located under the vehicle, on the back of the block.

Unhook and label all the harnesses that connect to the radiator fans. Remove the fans by lifting up and popping out. The fans are held in by 4 plastic hooks.

Unscrew the EGR pipe from the cat pipe.

Unhook the O2 sensor harnesses and label them.

Unbolt the cat pipe from the exhaust manifold.

Unbolt the cat pipe from the flex pipe.

Unbolt the cat bracket to remove the pipe from the engine bay.

Remove the passenger side axle by pulling it out of the differential.

Remove the drivers side axle by having one person pry on it at the diff while another uses a long flat blade screwdriver run thru the diff housing to apply pressure from the other side. Slide the screwdriver thru the passenger side of the diff being careful not to hit the center post. The pry man should only apply pressure with the bar, do not let the axle turn while the screwdriver is in the diff or else it could become jammed and may damage the differential. The person with the screwdriver should hit the end of it with a mallet with “significant” force. Don’t beat on it but don’t be afraid of it either.

Open the bung at the bottom of the radiator to drain the coolant.

Remove and label the coolant hoses from the water pump and thermostat.

Remove the thermostat housing.

Disconnect and label the wiring harness for the coil, radio suppressor (on the coil bracket) and the crank angle sensor. (front of engine, near the flywheel)

Remove and label the vacuum lines on the intake manifold that go to the evap canister, brake booster, and the large one going into the firewall.

Disconnect and label the harness that connects the fuel rail bus bar to the main harness @ the evap canister.

Disconnect the fuel line from the FRPS.

Disconnect and label the vacuum lines from the EGR pipe.

Disconnect and label the wiring harness from the power steering pump.

Disconnect the flexible hoses from the power steering pump.

Use the flared wrench to unscrew the power steering high-pressure line from the pump. (the metal line) the nut is very tight and if you use a crescent wrench, you will round it off.

Disconnect and label the wiring harness for the alternator and unscrew the cable that comes from the starter.

Disconnect and label the cables from the starter.

Unbolt the starter from the bell housing and remove it completely.

Cut or remove the accessory drive belt.

Unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the AC compressor to the engine block.

Disconnect and label the VSS harness.

Remove the shift cables from the linkage by prying the socket off the ball.

Remove the shift cables from the bracket.

Remove the small clip that secures the clutch line to the slave cylinder.

Pull the clutch fluid line out and plug it with something. (Careful, brake fluid attacks paint and plastic.)

Disconnect and label the controller harness from the trans housing.

Remove the linkage from the selector by prying the ball from the socket.

Attach the hoist chains to the engine eyehooks located at opposing ends of the cylinder head.

Raise the hoist just enough to put tension in the chains.

Support the engine and trans with a floor jack. (For safety only, load will not be free)

Under the car, remove the lower torque mount and trans bracket by unscrewing the bolt from the cross member the three bolts that secure the bracket to the trans, and the bolt that secures the mount into the bracket.

Unbolt the two nuts that secure the engine mount to the engine.

Unbolt the engine mount from the engine bay.

Remove the four outer bolts from the trans mount and pull out the plate.

Unscrew the center trans mount nut.

The powertrain is now free and ready to remove.

Raise the hoist slowly and check to be sure that as you lift, you are not caught on anything or left something connected. An assistant will be necessary to angle the lad for easier removal.

On the ground and supporting the trans with a jack, unbolt the trans from the engine block. Take note of what bolts go to what hole and which direction as there are 3 different sizes.

Pull the engine and transmission apart.

There is a small plastic cover on the back of the block that reveals a 2” hole. Remove that cover.

Using a wrench on the crank pulley or pry bar on the ring gear, turn the flywheel until a nut comes into view thru the access hole. There are 4 nuts, remove them all. If you drop one into the housing, this is ok as you are going to be separating everything.

On the ground and supporting the trans with a jack, unbolt the trans from the engine block. Take note of what bolts go to what hole and which direction as there are 3 different sizes.

Pull the engine and transmission apart.

If you are reusing the old flywheel, remove it by jamming the ring gear with the flywheel tool and taking out the 4 center bolts. You will need to have the flywheel resurfaced.

Without touching the friction plate of the clutch disc, place it in the pressure plate and put the assembly on the flywheel. Tighten the pressure plate to flywheel bolts just enough to hold everything in place.

Slide the clutch alignment tool thru the pilot bearing and into the center of the flywheel. The clutch is now lined up and you can tighten the pressure plate bolts to 21ft/lbs.

Remove the clutch alignment tool.

Be sure the torque converter is properly seated in the bell housing. If it has come loose or out, reinstall the converter by pushing it on the input shaft and turning it clockwise until you here a click. Turn and push again for a second click, turn and push again for a third click. It is now properly engaged.

Line up the bolts in the torque converter with the holes in the flexplate.

Bolt the transmission to the engine block and use the access hole to bolt the converter and flexplate together.

Hey, if you labeled everything and you made it this far, you don’t need my help getting it back together. ;-)

Fluid bleeding procedures and clutch cable adjustment to follow in separate how-to’s.