SVT Suspension Installation with Eibach anti-sway kit and Prothane coil spring isolator bushings.

To start, it would help to have a lift to do this all on, though not entirely necessary it would be extremely helpful. Remember to take the necessary precautions so as not to harm yourself, your car, or any others that might happen to be near you. I am writing this how-to without any in-process pictures, though I have some helpful after-process pictures that should help illustrate what I am talking about in the in-process stuff.

REAR:

I started in the rear of the car, mainly because I had heard the front sway bar was a pain in the buns.

1) Lift the car up and remove the wheels.

2) Locate the stock sway bar underneath the car, and remove the end-links from each side, these should be fairly obvious. Once you have removed those, locate the four bolts that hold the sway bar to the frame in two brackets. Remove those and save the bolts and brackets, the stock sway bar and bushings can be set aside for disposal or selling, or whatever, they are your parts I don't care.

3) Remove the bolt connecting the rear shock to the lower control arm, and let it hang freely. I'll remove and replace later on.

4) At first I thought I could remove the rear coil springs by somehow disconnecting the lower control arm. I was wrong. Those bolts were in there tighter than a virgin on prom night. So I removed the bolt connecting the upper control arm to the knuckle

Then using a pry bar I gently pulled down on the knuckle (carefully watching the brake line so as not to rip it out) while a helper pulled on the rear spring until it came out.

5) Then I placed the new Prothane coil spring isolator bushing on the new SVT spring (which I could determine if it had a top or bottom, and it wasn't labelled so I'm not sure they do) and again prying down, put the spring back into the perch.

6) Using vice grips and a helper again, replace the bolt in the upper control arm/knuckle. Rinse and repeat for the other side.

7) I have a sedan so I don't know how you hatch people operate so deal. Open the trunk and remove the carpeting on the sides of the trunk to reveal the top of the shocks, remove the nut and make sure to save all necessary parts from the top of the shock assembly. You'll probably have to attach vice grips to the shock piston in order to remove the nut, otherwise it is going to just spin pretty much freely which isn't going to get you anywhere.

8) Lower the shock down through the hole, and remove the rubber boots and other assorted bits from the stock shock assembly (I had used shocks so these didn't come with my stuff, if you have the new SVT kit, you'll have new ones and you don't need to worry about this.)

9) Push the new shock back through the hole and carefully attach vice grips to the piston in order to keep the piston from spinning while you tighten the nut on the top, if you squeeze too tight with the vice grips you are going to damage the piston and that will be bad news.

10) Reattach the fabric bits in the rear, and then reattach the shock at the bottom just as you removed it. Rinse and repeat for the other side.

11) Take the new Eibach sway bar, bushings, and end links and set them out. Grease the bushings and sway bar with the supplied grease, and fit the bushings over the sway bar. Place the brackets over the bushings and lightly attach to the car.

12) Using the end links that Eibach supplies with the anti-sway kit, attach the sway bar to the stock mounting points

13) Finish tightening the sway bar brackets.

14) Replace the wheels.

15) The rear is done.

FRONT:

The front isn't all that difficult as I thought. The hardest part is getting the stock sway bar out, and the new one in, only because you have limited space to work in.

1) Remove front wheels.

2) Disconnect sway bar end links from both the sway bar and the strut assembly.

3) Disconnect the strut assembly from the knuckle.

4) Remove the 3 bolts from the top of the strut plate (under the hood).

5) Carefully lower the strut and spring assembly from the car.

6) Using a spring compressor, remove the strut plate from the top of the strut assembly BE VERY CAREFUL. THE SPRING WILL GO ABOUT 100 FEET EASILY IF YOU SCREW UP AND GOD HELP THOSE WHO ARE IN IT'S PATH!!!

7) Assemble the new spring/strut assembly from the SVT suspension using the strut plate you just removed.

8) Fit strut assembly back into car and reattach at the top, do not reattach at the knuckle just yet. Rinse and repeat for the other side.

9) Under the car remove 4 bolts on the sub-frame towards the rear of the car, then loosen two bolts located just above the driveshafts connecting the sub-frame to the frame.

10) Carefully swing the sub-frame down until you can get to the bolts on the sway bar brackets, this will not be alot of space, and be prepared to crack your knuckles.

11) Remove the 4 bolts (2 in each bracket), and remove the brackets, swing the sway bar out one side as much as you can and remove the sway bar, this will take a good bit of wiggling and manuevering.

12) Once you have the stock piece removed, grease the bushings for the front sway bar, slip them over the sway bar and then finagle that back into place, replace the brackets, and then tighten the two bolts from the frame to the subframe and then reattach the 4 bolts from the subframe.

13) Reattach the strut assembly to the knuckle, and reattach the sway bar end links to both the strut and the sway bar.

14) Replace wheels.

15) Lower car off of lift and admire.

How to courtesy of TF member RPIJG